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Here in Ontario, that very much depends upon the gym and the date the climbs were put up. There are a lot of 80s trad climbs put up with stiff grades, because t
by braythwayt 8y ago
Here in Ontario, that very much depends upon the gym and the date the climbs were put up. There are a lot of 80s trad climbs put up with stiff grades, because the OGs that opened the sport were insanely tough and liked nothing more than for visiting climbers to fall off 5.10s.
It was some kind of magnificent but toxic culture, very similar to surf culture, with hidden spots and tribal rivalries.
The first gym to open in Toronto carried over this tradition, but other gyms eventually opened and went with "friendlier" grades, so there can be a big discrepancy between a new gym's ratings and an old trad climb in Ontario. But newer outside routes, especially new hard sport routes, are put up by climbers with newer grade sensibilities, so the indoor and outdoor grades are consistent.