There are conservation parks, which to my surprise still let you do a limited amount of riding (as you wash them in the river) but are supposed to be rescuing e

There are conservation parks, which to my surprise still let you do a limited amount of riding (as you wash them in the river) but are supposed to be rescuing elephants from mistreatment elsewhere. The riding is presumably offered as a way of funding the place (particularly given how much the elephants eat). So depending on where you go it may not be entirely terrible.