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Cavers will use natural rigging when it is available. Many pits are bell shaped since they form from the bottom up. So they are quite easy to rig an rappel. You
by planteen 8y ago
Cavers will use natural rigging when it is available. Many pits are bell shaped since they form from the bottom up. So they are quite easy to rig an rappel. You tie off to some breakdown or perhaps a tree if you are on the surface and one is convenient. Your rappel rubs for maybe a few feet on the way down and then you are completely free. To get back up, you often use a system called a frog with ascenders (jumars). Trad rock climbing out of such a pit would be impossible and do far more damage. There are often formations on the walls and it climbing such an overhung situation would be impossible for most mortals who can't handle a 5.15.
But sometimes bolts are unavoidable. You need to rig such that your rope won't cut itself from rubbing as you ascend. Or perhaps you need to avoid a waterfall. You set a bolt and redirect or rebelay in situations.
Sometimes there is nothing to rig to as far as breakdown goes. Or you are on the surface and there are no trees or breakdown nearby. Finally, sometimes you reach a dome in a cave which is only seen from the bottom. So you need to do a dome climb up it. This typically involves setting bolts as well, though sometimes trad gear can be used.
The impact of a bolt isn't very great. Cavers typically remove the hangars just leaving a hole when expedition caving. After all, they will hopefully need the hangars for something new shortly thereafter.
- chrisseaton 8y ago> But sometimes bolts are unavoidable. I mean you can avoid it by not caving if it's not possible without permanently defacing the rock.
- planteen 8y agoThe Huatla system is over 50 miles long and probably has a few dozen bolts, strategically placed at vertical pitches. Nobody is drilling holes in the rock for the hell of it. The bolts will be drilled into dirty limestone, not formations. If you have this attitude and you only free solo when you climb, I concede. You are a bad-ass. But if you are a trad climber, give me a break. Popular trad routes are painfully obvious, especially in sandstone.