Ask HN: What's a good self-hosted email stack nowadays?

I've been aiming to delete my google account for a while. But email is a real pain, and gmail has been the hardest thing to get off of. I already use a local mail client and never touch the web interface, but I'd rather be completely off the google ecosystem. The last time I hosted my own email was about 13 years ago, using a single linode with postfix, dovecot, and various spamassasin/procmail rules to mitigate spam (I even remember using Postgrey with postfix to "greylist" email... those were the days.) Nowadays I know at the very least I'll have to mess with proper SSL (which I didn't bother with back then), SPF records, and probably other technologies that are all but required for other mail servers to not think I'm spam. I'm wondering if the self-hosted mail world has matured to the point where running a decent stack on AWS is automatic or at least simple. I'd like to be able to administer all the pieces, so I'd prefer it to not be a complete black box, but hopefully still be easy to automate and require little maintenance. Has the open-source mail administration world gotten better in the past 10-15 years?