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You should use a fume remover when you're soldering, even if it's just a fan blowing the smoke out a window or doorway. Even the lead-free kind isn't great, and

You should use a fume remover when you're soldering, even if it's just a fan blowing the smoke out a window or doorway. Even the lead-free kind isn't great, and they often contain rosin, flux, and/or additives like antimony or bismuth. Hey, side question if anyone knows; would P100 filters on a dusk mask help?

semi-extrinsic 9y ago
I didn't mention fume removal, but I should have. My thought was that it goes for any type of solder. Importantly, fumes do not contain lead. Lead oxide fumes only start occuring above 450°C, well above normal soldering temperatures (320-370°C). The P100 filter catches airborne particles larger than 0.3 microns. Solder fumes are partly particles down to 0.1 microns, but also gases produced from vaporization of rosin; e.g. toluene, formaldehyde, styrene. Those are molecules a lot smaller than 0.3 microns. So the answer is no, just a P100 filter does not solve everything. If you need to use a mask, I would suggest a 3M 7500 half-mask with the organic vapor/acid gas/P100 combo filter. I use one for glue work etc. and it's got a very tight seal and is pretty comfy (relatively speaking). Will cost you about $40-$50. Does require a relatively clean shave and proper fitting (sniff test) to be effective. Or you could get a benchtop soldering fume extractor with an activated carbon and HEPA filter, which is a lot more comfortable. Also more expensive though. Cheapest solution is doing like a friend of mine, using his shop vacuum with HEPA filter.
- leggomylibro 9y ago
  Ah, nice - I do have a half-mask for stuff like spray-painting and worrying about the fit on my cheap laser cutter's exhaust, but wasn't sure how effective it might be. You learn something new every day, thanks!
- cr0sh 9y ago
  > Cheapest solution is doing like a friend of mine, using his shop vacuum with HEPA filter. Actually, the most bare-bones cheapest solution would be to solder outside with a slight breeze. Only works in certain climates and times of year, tho...

semi-extrinsic 9y ago

I didn't mention fume removal, but I should have. My thought was that it goes for any type of solder. Importantly, fumes do not contain lead. Lead oxide fumes only start occuring above 450°C, well above normal soldering temperatures (320-370°C). The P100 filter catches airborne particles larger than 0.3 microns. Solder fumes are partly particles down to 0.1 microns, but also gases produced from vaporization of rosin; e.g. toluene, formaldehyde, styrene. Those are molecules a lot smaller than 0.3 microns. So the answer is no, just a P100 filter does not solve everything. If you need to use a mask, I would suggest a 3M 7500 half-mask with the organic vapor/acid gas/P100 combo filter. I use one for glue work etc. and it's got a very tight seal and is pretty comfy (relatively speaking). Will cost you about $40-$50. Does require a relatively clean shave and proper fitting (sniff test) to be effective. Or you could get a benchtop soldering fume extractor with an activated carbon and HEPA filter, which is a lot more comfortable. Also more expensive though. Cheapest solution is doing like a friend of mine, using his shop vacuum with HEPA filter.

leggomylibro 9y ago
Ah, nice - I do have a half-mask for stuff like spray-painting and worrying about the fit on my cheap laser cutter's exhaust, but wasn't sure how effective it might be. You learn something new every day, thanks!
cr0sh 9y ago
> Cheapest solution is doing like a friend of mine, using his shop vacuum with HEPA filter. Actually, the most bare-bones cheapest solution would be to solder outside with a slight breeze. Only works in certain climates and times of year, tho...