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Great post, just to add some info: The 'screw' that counterbalances the pulling force on the neck exerted by the strings is the "truss rod" which sits inside t
by flavio81 9y ago
Great post, just to add some info:
The 'screw' that counterbalances the pulling force on the neck exerted by the strings is the "truss rod" which sits inside the neck (on an electric guitar and some acoustics); this rod is adjustable.
This adjustment influences the 'action'. But the 'action' is also set by the bridge saddles' height, which is adjustable. Most often this height is adjustable independently for each string.
Each time the action is changed (raised or lowered), intonation should be adjusted again, accordingly.
It sounds very complex but it isn't, it just takes a bit of patience and experience (for making a good judgement of what an ideal action would be).
To be honest, much more laborious and difficult is to tune a drum set so it sounds great. There are more adjustment points...
- ralmeida 9y agoGood point, forgot to mention the name of the truss rod and the saddle height - which is arguably the most influential parameter in overall action. I also second the opinion that it's quite approachable if you're patient and methodical. Another tip (to _keep_ the setup working) would be to have the guitar professionally set up, then carefully measuring and writing down the parameters, so they can be reproduced later. The hardest one is neck relief, but even this can be approached in a reproducible way by pressing the first and last frets on a string and measuring space left at the 12th fret with a "feeler gauge" or some other width reference (credit cards, stacked sheets of paper, etc).
- flavio81 9y agoTip: Picks can work as a substitute feeler gauge. Pick thicknesses are often indicated on the pick (i.e. "2mm")