I'm looking into getting a toto-based blog going, and yes, it is easy to get started with. However, I'm finding a bit of a lack of info on middle-level stuff: a

I'm looking into getting a toto-based blog going, and yes, it is easy to get started with. However, I'm finding a bit of a lack of info on middle-level stuff: are there CSS themes out there that work with it? How do I handle things like permalinks, tags, a table of contents, trackbacks, etc.? Probably there's some "easy to find" file that I ought to be reading. Great. Where is it?