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I'll try to draw with text and then explain. _________ [S [I] S] [S [I] S] [S [I] S] [S [I] S] [S [I] S] ========= For S and I: use 'normal' woo
by mjevans 10y ago
I'll try to draw with text and then explain.
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For S and I: use 'normal' wood, or if using metal mandate expanding spray-foam insulation (to dampen vibrations). I MUST be insulated (should be fire code, as well as noise and common sense code).
The brackets are 'dry wall' but mandate the higher quality stuff that won't support mold growth.
Yes, there's an inner gap between the outer walls, and the floor/ceiling have a bit of extra padding of some structured engineering product that dampens vibrations.
The outer walls have studding to allow for cords and in-wall plumbing.
Do NOT run plumbing or put any shelving/fixtures on walls adjacent to another unit.
I haven't seen, or figured out my self, how to make the vertical noise isolation equally effective. I suspect a dedicated between floor crawlspace would be effective (but raise costs notably).
The core-wall approach CAN lower costs since it allows for a structural core with studs as dense as desired and no cut-outs.
- rsync 10y ago"I haven't seen, or figured out my self, how to make the vertical noise isolation equally effective." 1/2 layer of cork underneath the top layer of flooring is inexpensive and effective for noise isolation ...
- Arizhel 10y agoYou'll need some kind of artificial "cork". Real cork is in short supply and very expensive. Most wine bottles these days have dumped real corks and switched to fake ones, or have just gone to screw caps (which is really better anyway; corks are an anachronism and inferior in every way to a screw cap).