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In general, when you see a climber bearing down on a tiny crimp that fits the very tip of just one finger, seeming to support his body weight on it, that is exa
by jasonkester 10y ago
In general, when you see a climber bearing down on a tiny crimp that fits the very tip of just one finger, seeming to support his body weight on it, that is exactly what is happening. His feet will be on holds that are considerably worse.
The amazing thing is that if you apply yourself to climbing and train for a few years, you will be able to move off similar holds in similar positions.
It's a pretty cool feeling.
- zond 10y agoThe thing is, usually those foot holds are holding most of the weight - a chip for the foot is worth a jug in the hand :)
- bhickey 10y agoNot to mention core strength! Tiny little holds are often at inconvenient angles. To pull on those features his entire body is engaged.
- rectang 10y agoAs a non-climber, when I watch the Dawn Wall videos, there's an illusion that the surface is 90 degrees sheer, perpendicular to the ground. Understanding that there is actually a slight incline puts those tiny holds in a little more context, moving the concept of clinging to the wall's surface from "impossible" to "outrageous".
- wlll 10y agoFor some comparison here's Adam Ondra climbing another route. And no, this photo wasn't rotated 90°, it is really an overhang :) https://www.8a.nu/images/news/large/636002137114161240_13320515_786795324755406_315282076536749870_o.jpg https://www.8a.nu/images/news/large/636002137114161240_13320... A famous bouldering problem, "Witlness the Fitness" that inclues a cieling: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_PP1AK1Aqis https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_PP1AK1Aqis