I think this is it: http://mra.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/05/Beverly_IceScrews_Final.pdf http://mra.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/05/Beverly_IceScrews_... It's

I think this is it: http://mra.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/05/Beverly_IceScrews_Final.pdf http://mra.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/05/Beverly_IceScrews_... It's been a while since i've thought about ice climbing, but i think most/many ice climbers are using twin and double ropes, which significantly softens the impacts, while the Ouray study is primarily single ropes (from my quick reread) this is another: http://hmga.gr/storehouse/word-acrobat/Ice%20Climbing%20Anchor%20Strength%20-%20MRA%202009%20-%20Marc%20Beverly.pdf http://hmga.gr/storehouse/word-acrobat/Ice%20Climbing%20Anch... I used to climb at the gym in Salt Lake adjacent to BD's headquarters, and remember meeting equipment designers and testers. They seemed pretty fanatical about testing and had rigged up all kinds of equipment to, among other things, destroy carabiners at different angles, which made me feel good about their climbing gear. The most important factor is that you always rigged to load biners along the length, never near or on the gate. BTW self rescue is a critical skill for all climbers, but the years i lived in the Bay Area, i remember only a handful of clinics for this (the ones I went to were in Davis)