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> are things like ice screws and pitons always single-use? No. Ice screws are definitely something the follower cleans (just unscrew them) and pitons can gener
by npsimons 10y ago
> are things like ice screws and pitons always single-use?
No. Ice screws are definitely something the follower cleans (just unscrew them) and pitons can generally be removed, either by hammering them back and forth, prying them out like a nail, or using a funkness device (a wire with a loop on each end) to yank them out. "Big Walls: Elite Technique" by Jared Ogden has some nice diagrams, but they didn't turn up online when I searched for them. Also, pitons generally aren't used any more (definitely not in sport or trad climbing), but I wouldn't say they are niche or rare. Many big walls in Yosemite still haven't been done "clean", they still require the use of pitons.
This is coming from someone who's only climbed clean aid and whose climbing partner really doesn't want to climb anything that requires a hammer, but I've still picked up a hammer and some old pitons to practice with.
- amaks 10y agoPitons are used a lot in mixed winter climbing when often there are no other ways to protect.
- npsimons 10y agoThat's what I've heard, that you want pitons for those ice filled cracks which would normally take cams or chocks but are currently otherwise occupied. I've not had a chance to do ice climbing yet, but am looking forward to taking a class in the early months of next year.