But that't the whole point - Xi'an foods started as exactly the kind of a no-name, hole-in-the-wall like you describe. How'd they get to where they are now? B

But that't the whole point - Xi'an foods started as exactly the kind of a no-name, hole-in-the-wall like you describe. How'd they get to where they are now? Because they get food, they get what what people really want, and they found a culinary niche that until that point had been widely ignored. That's how they made their "brand".