The whole first 3 paragraphs almost describes an intricate dance of restaurants having to keep up with the Times to recognize these reviewers, and the reviewers

The whole first 3 paragraphs almost describes an intricate dance of restaurants having to keep up with the Times to recognize these reviewers, and the reviewers disguising themselves to get a more authentic experience. It is sort of like driving -- the best way to avoid a speeding ticket is not by having a keen eye, understanding the cop shifts and hiding spots, and when its "quota" time, the best way to avoid a ticket is to just always drive safely. Then you don't even have to worry about being pulled over. Similarly, the best way to avoid having a bad review from a fancy columnist, is to just always treat every customer as if they are special, and not have to catch yourself up in the worry of always looking out for the right people. My father was a restauranteur for 35 years, and myself for 8, I found that even if you don't get it right the first time, if the service is exceptional and you build a rapport with your clientele, you will be given a chance to make it right. Focus your efforts on the important things.