I grew up on Soviet trains and have traveled extensively in the region. Let me tell you the secret to the Russian railroad system: do not buy tickets from agenc

I grew up on Soviet trains and have traveled extensively in the region. Let me tell you the secret to the Russian railroad system: do not buy tickets from agencies or even from the official ticket office. The stewardess for each train car is in charge of checking tickets, gets paid next to nothing, and relies on gray market transactions to make a living. Walk through the train until you find a clean car that you like and talk to the stewardess directly. Arrange your destination an the price with the her (this is true if you have a ticket or not). For a small extra fee you can buy out all four seats in the second class coupe or cabin. The price is entirely negotiable. Understand that your presence on the train without taking care of the stewardess is a loss of income. Do not be surprised about gruff treatment. Once you pay her directly expect a much friendlier transaction. Arrange everything with your host: meals, money exchange, etc. Compensate generously and you will have an amazing time.