Also he is talking about a particular type of restaurant -- the "trendy" type where people want to pay high prices in order to be viewed as successful and maybe

Also he is talking about a particular type of restaurant -- the "trendy" type where people want to pay high prices in order to be viewed as successful and maybe to see a celebrity or two at a nearby table. No, a bowl of ramen shouldn't cost $28 (or even "just" $17). The ramen places I go to, run by (and largely for) immigrants, sell excellent bowls of ramen for well under $10. Such restaurants are in no danger of going away.