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Where in the world are you? Editting since I can't reply. Technologically limiting... There's an irony here. So the first thing is to understand the kind of t
by petewailes 11y ago
Where in the world are you?
Editting since I can't reply. Technologically limiting... There's an irony here.
So the first thing is to understand the kind of tailoring you're after. There's a difference between fully bespoke and having adjustments made. The latter is 98% of the fit that you'll get, with a shorter time to wait, and you'll be wearing similar things before which can give you a better idea of what you'll end up with if you haven't bought a fully tailored suit before.
The second thing is to consider what you're buying for. There's a difference, obviously, between buying for a daily suit to wear, and purchasing for a more formal or occasion specific outfit (for example, a white tie event suit with tails).
That being said, here's some general pointers.
Wool is worth the money. It wears well, it's classic, and it'll be able to adjust nicely if you put on or lose weight/muscle. A good navy or charcoal wool suit as a daily is a solid choice. Look for a good weight in a daily wear. 8-10oz would be my choice.
Jacket: partially or ideally fully canvased would by my choice. It's more expensive but harder wearing, and it'll mould to.the shape of your body better. It'll also generally have better definition and shape.
Ask what will be hand sewn. More fiddly areas like the cuffs and collar will get a better fit if hand finished. On a similar note, think about what you want in terms of a style considering your body shape. If you're leaner, a suit with narrow darts and some padding in the shoulder will accentuate the torso. Pinstripes have a similar effect, in lengthening the body. Talk to your tailor and get recommendations based on your particular body shape. For example, I'm tall bit broad shouldered, so I tend to go for a smaller card shoulder pad, to allow for definition but still create mobility in the arms.
Now, for more formal wear, you're going to be getting more expensive. Similar considerations apply, but think about the whole outfit. What shoes you'll be wearing will influence fabric colour choice. Is it white or black tie? Bow tie or less formal?
For a full white tie outfit, for example, you'll want to think about how often you'll wear it. There's places you can save money, in terms of garment longevity if you aren't planning on wearing regularly. For example, lighter wools will cost less (essentially you're buying less material, and the thinner wools are easier to work).
Also, plan to spend some time. A full fitting will be between 30-50ish measurements, depending on your size and body shape. That takes time. Ask about how many times you'll need to be fitted. Assume twice, but a larger person may need three or four.
Finally, I'd generally say classic for formal and daily, but modern for events. For example, if I'm attending a more relaxed business event, I'll wear a Saville Row with a particularly bright lining, or perhaps something with a more interesting outer fabric.
If you want to chat more, feel free to email me.
Apologies for any typos - on my mobile.
- wyclif 11y agoThe USA.