I have been to PNG three times. Early '80s when I was three for ten months (had my fourth birthday there), again when I was thirteen for three months, and lastl

I have been to PNG three times. Early '80s when I was three for ten months (had my fourth birthday there), again when I was thirteen for three months, and lastly about eight years ago for a few weeks. I agree with your observations, which feel quite astute to me. Some of the cities are awful, particularly Moresby. (I stayed in the Mapang guest house that was mentioned when we got stranded in Moresby due to a missed connecting flight. Travel plans always involved trying to get in and out of Moresby in the same day and not leaving the airport if at all possible.) I spent most of my time in Ukarumpa but have visited Goroka as well as Lae and Madang. Never been near Mount Hagan, which has a long history of violence. One thing I noticed changing over the times I visited was the increased amount of security. The razor-wire fences, not just in Morseby. Armed security guards and such. With around 860 distinct languages, isolation and travel difficulty imposed by incredibly rugged terrain, it is a country with remarkably unique challenges.