I surf frequently (live near a select coast and all that). Waiting in the lineup for waves gives you a lot of time to think. I often think about the fact that

I surf frequently (live near a select coast and all that). Waiting in the lineup for waves gives you a lot of time to think. I often think about the fact that I might spend 2.5 hours in the water, but my total standing time might only be 5min total. And that's on a good day! Heres the math: ~3.5min paddle out, ~10min waiting for my wave (more time if it's crowded), ~30 seconds setting up and paddling to catch the wave, 30sec wave ride time (assuming a good wave). Rinse and repeat from step 1. Roughly about 15min per 30 second wave (assuming again, a good day). Or about 2min of riding per hour. Of course there are lots of variables here and lots of ways to be more efficient with time/energy, but I think the gist of it is there.